Flat collar :Sewing tutorial

A flat collar is the type of collar that you regularly see on women’s dresses blouses; As the name suggests, it lies close to the garment’s neckline – the inside edge of the collar and the neckline are the same. It is a casual and feminine-looking collar. 

This is an oft seen collar on kids’ dresses. It is usually cut in a rounded shape for girls’ dresses or else pointed.

A flat collar rolls over the neckline seam and lies flat, but that does not mean that the neckline seam or the collar seam edges will be visible – the collar is sewn with the help of a facing which is turned to the back and stitched – so the neckline seam is not neatly done.

How to sew a flat collar

Step 1.

Cut out the pattern pieces. This is for 2 seperate flat collars. Measure the half of the neckline round.

Mark the collar on the fabric pieces for the outer collar and under collar.

Another method to draft the flat collar is to mark from the garment neckline. ie. Mark the collar along the neckline of your garment.

Remember to mark the collars along the lengthwise grain of a fabric to avoid over stretching. You need 2 outer pieces and 2 under collar pieces.

Step 2.

Attach interfacing to the undercollar pieces.

Interfacing can be attached to the undercollar before cutting out the pattern.

Use interfacing that matches your fabric; attach the interfacing to the under collar fabric and then cut the pattern (If you are using a see-through fabric for the upper collar, attach the interfacing to the upper collar fabric; otherwise you will be able to see the interfacing)

Step 3.

Keep the upper collar piece and under collar piece right sides together

Stitch along the outer edge.

Clip along with the seam allowance every one inch or so. If there are corners, cut off.

Step 4.

Press the seam allowance open. You may have keep it on a rounded pressing tool 

Step 5.

At this point, you may understitch the undercollar and the seam allowance- this ensures that the undercollar fabric would not roll to the front.

Step 7.

Turn the Collar right side out

Step 8.

Stay stitch the neckline. Make a facing unit for the neckline. The facing should be 1/4 inch longer finish the outer edge of the facing (just turn the edge to the inside and stitch)

Step 9.

Pin the collar on the neckline.

Step 10.

Cut a 1 inch piece of bias cut fabric piece as facing. Keep the facing on top, right side down, and stitch in place.

Understitch the facing and the seam allowance.

Turn the facing to the back and Hand stitch the facing to the garment.

An easy way to add flat collar on your garment is to buy one of the ready made ones and just sew it on.

Related posts: How to sew a polo collar; Peterpan collar; Different types of collars; Different types of shirt collars.