Fabric Quality guidelines

Explanation of the term FABRIC and how to look out for different qualities you want in fabrics like fibers, weave, drape, hand etc

Fabric is a generic term used for the material made from yarn, a continuous strand of textile fibers or filaments (natural and synthetic). The fabric can be made up from a fibre type (cotton, linen, wool, silk, polyester, nylon etc) as well as a weave type (plain, twill, satin etc). It is made by various methods like weaving, knitting, knotting, chemically using gluing, bonding, or melting together and mechanically tangling the fibers together (felting) 

“You want cotton, silk, wool, or rayon?” Usually, a person going to the shop to buy fabric gets asked this pretty general question. It is a very, very important question but too bland, too non-creative. There are so many different types of each of these types of fabrics that the question leads you nowhere.

Under the label of cotton itself there are so many types of cotton fabrics – I counted more than 100. There are so many silk fabric varieties, wool fabric varieties. Here are the various articles on this site to get a comprehensive understanding of the characteristics and properties of different fabrics and how they work optimally in the making of your projects.

Textile vs fabric

Then the next question you may have is the difference between textiles and fabrics. Textile is an all encompassing term used to represent lot of materials made of textile fibers. Not all textiles are fabrics. But all fabrics are textiles.

20 FAQ on the important fabric qualities to look out for

There are some pertinent questions that you ought to ask about fabric – they range from complex to simple – but all of them are relevant in one way or the other and will affect the appearance, strength and many other desirable qualities that you will be looking for in your fabric. 

1.What fiber is the fabric made of ? 

printed fabric

Fiber is the building block of your fabric. Fabric is made of yarn which is made from different kinds of fibers. Some yarn is made of a single particular fiber (eg. 100% cotton) but some are a blend (eg. Polycotton).  And there are so many different types of fabrics that it will literally boggle your mind.

Read the full list of names of fabrics here. 

Learn more about the different types of textile fibers here. You can read more details on how the fibers are made into fabric here.

textile fibers

If you are unsure about what fiber your fabric is made up of, you can do some fabric testing as mentioned here

Related posts : Natural fabrics; Animal fabrics ; Eco friendly fabrics

2. What is the type of yarn in your fabric and how are they spun?

A fabric is fine or coarse depending on the type, thickness and density of its yarns. The yarn may be classified as spun yarns (made from short, staple fibers) or filament yarns (made from continuous filament fibers). Very fine cotton fabric is made of spun cotton yarn that has been combed to remove short fibers.

Reference: Read more on 28 different types of yarn or The comprehensive article on yarns here

Cotton yarn weight is measured by the term ‘yarn number’ or yarn count. This is the number of hanks of yarn needed to make up one pound of yarn.  Higher the yarn number thinner the yarn, and consequently thinner and finer the fabric.

Yarn is measured by the term denier, which indicates weight, in grams, of a 9000-meter length of yarn. Lower the denier finer the yarn. You can learn more about What is Denier here.

The twist of the yarns used in the fabric can change the feel of the fabric and its appearance. Well twisted yarns are stronger and will wear better than uneven, loosely twisted yarns. Twist can increase fineness, strength and the elasticity of the yarn. Most of the yarns used in the woven fabric have an average twist but some fabrics like crepe are made with yarns with high twist. But a filament yarn without much twist can make the fabric appear smoother.

The direction of the Twist in the yarn (clockwise S twist or counterclockwise Z twist) can affect how light bounces off the fabric. 

knit fabric

3. What is the ply of the fabric?

The ply of a fabric refers to the way the yarn that makes the fabric is twisted/used. Each strand of single yarn is referred to as a ply.

Single-ply and 2 ply are the most commonly used terms indicating the twist of the yarn used in making the fabric.

Single-ply means the fiber is twisted to make a single yarn and that is used to make the fabric.

2 Ply means two yarns are spun into a single one and then that is used to make the fabric.

Knowing the ply is important as it can affect the thickness and strength of the yarn and in turn the strength, appearance and absorbability of the fabric.

net fabric with embroidery and bead work

4. What is the fabric construction method used?

According to the way fabrics are made, you can mainly classify fabrics as woven, knits and non woven.

Knitted Fabrics are made by interlocking continuous thread into rows of loops by hand or specialized machines. They have a nice elasticity to them which makes these fabrics suitable for making comfortable and form fitting clothes. Learn about the different types of knit fabrics here.

Woven fabrics are made by interweaving yarn with weft yarn doing over and under the warp yarn. Handweaving is not as prevalent as machine weaving today. The other category nonwoven fabrics are made by applying  heat, moisture, and pressure to fibers. All have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Related post : Knit Vs Woven. ; Handwoven fabrics

5. What is the fabric weave? 

Knowing about the type of fabric weave is important in knowing the drape and feel of the fabric and the appearance of the fabric. Finely woven fabric will have a nice drape and a smooth feel. You can learn more about the different kinds of fabric weaves here.

A fabric that will ravel at the cut edges needs extra care when sewing. If you have a tightly woven fabric it may not ravel at the edges. Knits never ravel at the edges but thin knits tend to roll which is unattractive. An excessive raveling tendency is not a good sign.

Fabric with flat metallic embroidery as surface embellishment

 

6. What is the fabric weight?

A fabric can be lightweight, medium weight, heavyweight or anything in between. Lightweight fabrics usually have a loose weave. Heavyweight fabrics usually have a tight weave.

Fabric weight is also dependent on the yarn used.

You cannot gauge a fabric’s quality by looking at its weight – it is more indicative of what you can use the fabric for. For eg. a thin cotton fabric is better suited for warm climates. That does not mean it is inferior. Thick cotton is better suited for making a bag etc. 

GSM (Grams per square meter) is the term that you use for fabric weights. You can speculate on the fabric’s thickness from its gsm. A medium quality (thickness) Cotton fabric would have about 150 gsm, the standard one is around 180 gsm, a higher quality would be around 200 gsm. Read more about GSM of fabric here.

list of woven fabrics according to weight
Woven fabrics according to weight
list of knit fabric according to weight
Knit fabrics according to weight

Related post : Denier of fabric. 

7. What is the thread count of the fabric?

Thread count of a fabric is the number of yarns in an inch of fabric. Higher the thread count better the quality of the fabric – this is the general idea. Loosely woven fabrics are not perceived as high quality fabrics as the yarns in it may pull apart at the seams and the durability of the fabric is also low.

Thread count is a very misunderstood term in terms of quality of fabric. You may see high thread count in the label and get inferior fabric. You can learn more about thread count here.

fabric with print on the surface

8. What are types of dyeing & printing done on the fabric?

Fabric can be dyed with Chemical dyes or Natural Dyes. Natural dyeing is done using dyes sourced from plants and other natural sources like barks, leaves, roots, seeds and soil. They are used to dye silk and cotton, with only alum as a mordant. The side effects of chemicals in the dye process are avoided by using natural dyes.

Designs and motifs on the fabric may be as a result of weaving with colored thread or as a result of printing done after the fabric is made. Yarn made designs are qualitatively better than printed ones.

You can have a look at this post on Fabric patterns to put a name on quite a few. And also if you are further curious the different ways the patterns are repeated and positioned on fabric.

Related posts : Different types of fabric prining ; Different types of fabric dyes; How to dye fabric; Natural dyeing of fabric.

9. Are the fibers of the fabric strong and resilient?

This indicates the durability of the fabric. When you use force on your fabric does it tear easily? Some fabrics will never ever. Say a polyester fabric – you have to use a knife on it to tear. But some cotton fabric can tear with some ketchup spilled.

The strength of the fabric may be dependent on the type of yarns and the thickness of the warp and weft yarns.

A fabric is said to be resilient when the fabric can spring back to its original shape after being twisted, crushed, wrinkled, or distorted in any way. Wrinkle resistance in a fabric also looks similar. Wool, Polyester, Nylon are highly resilient fabrics.

denim fabric

Related : A list of the best durable fabrics

10. What kind of finishes does it have?

Fabric is given finishes to change its appearance and functionality. A kind of superpower. You name it, they have invented it. Waterproofing, Stain-free, Wrinkle-free, to name a few. Many of the finishes are patented by companies who invented them and have exclusive rights to use them.

You can learn more on these 70+ fabric finishes here.

11. Will the fabric absorb moisture?

This is the quality of the fabric that makes you comfortable as you wear it. Imagine wearing a dress that gives a yucky feeling when you sweat. We are talking about the ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Cotton and other natural fabrics are highly absorbent.

Wick-ability is the ability of a fiber to transport moisture away from the skin. This is an important property in active wear. Chekout Best fabrics for workout clothes. 

Sometimes you seek out water resistant quality in fabrics – Here is a list of the  Best waterproof fabrics

see through fabric

Related posts :Most water absrobing fabrics; Best fabrics for summer weather 

12. How drapeable is the fabric?

This is dependent on the ability of the fiber to bend with minimal force.The fluid quality of a fabric is important in fashion designing. Usually thin and lightweight fabrics are very drapeable, but not always. Fabric cut on the bias has a good drape

Related post : Best fabric to make dresses 

13. What is the hand of the fabric ?

This refers to the fabric texture – the way it feels as you run a hand on top of the fabric. The type of fiber used, the weave of the yarns, finishing used on the surface, all can have an effect on the type of hand your fabric has. You can learn more on fabric texture here. 

14. Does the fabric stretch?

A fabric is said to have elasticity and is stretchable when it is made of fibers that will stretch when you pull it and then when you release, it will go back to the same position it was earlier. Knit fabric stretches a lot but this also depends on the type of knit. And low quality knits will overstretch if not maintained well. 

You can learn more about stretchy fabrics here.

15. Does the fabric shrink?

Minimizing shrinkage in fabrics has been a goal for textile manufacturers for years. In some fabrics like cotton, the fabric weave will draw tighter after a wash.

Preshrinking is a must use procedure for new fabrics before they are made to clothes so that the fabric would not shrink after use and look distorted. These kinds of fabrics are known as shrinkable fabrics.

Some fabric comes pre-shrunk from the bolt. They are processed so at the manufacturing unit and there is no need of preshrinking at home.

Related posts : Preshrinking fabric ; How to prevent Shrinkage in fabric.  

16. Is it easily maintainable?

Is the fabric washable at home or does it need to be dry cleaned? ‘Easily maintainable’ is a quality highly desirable in fabric. But then, it depends on the purpose of the fabric you are buying. You will want machine washable fabric to make work clothes, but for wedding attire you may be happy to buy ‘high maintenance dryclean’ only silk.

You maybe able to learn how to care for a fabric from the care labels on the bolts.

17. Does the fabric wear and tear fast or pill?

When some fabric rub against any surface continuously, the fibers start to break at that place – some start to pill, some start to get worn with pinching fibers. There are certain fabrics which show a propensity to wear and tear and pilling. 

18. Is it on the grain ?

Sometimes the fabric will fail to line up straight at the ends of the fabric or the selvages will not lie straight. This is a fabric flaw and relates to the weave of the fabric  – you need a fabric that is woven on the grain so that it will fall nicely and be symmetrical as you make things with them.

grainline of a fabric

The woven fabric do not show much stretch along the lengthwise grain, a little stretch along the crosswise grain and a lot along the bias grain.

A straight grain line is important for the quality of your garment. You can learn more on the grain of the fabric here.

19. Would the colors of the fabric fade ?

This is dependent on a lot of factors – when the dyeing is done (at the fiber stage, the yarn stage, or the fabric stage), the type of dyes used and finally on the correct maintenance of the fabric by the consumer. 

You can prevent color fading to a degree with good care. Learn more about preventing color fading of fabrics here

20. Is it made under sustainable conditions?

Finally, can you wear garments made out of your favorite fabric without any blot on your conscience?

Sustainability is a buzz word today, for very good reasons. When our survival is being challenged by climatic conditions and natural phenomena, some of which seem preventable with some pro-active action from our part, it makes sense to buy fabric that is made ethically and sustainably

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Hi, I love sewing, fabric, fashion, embroidery, doing easy DIY projects and then writing about them. Hope you have fun learning from sewguide as much as I do. If you find any mistakes here, please point it out in the comments.
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