Indian Hand Embroidery techniques (8 popular ones)

Traditional embroidery techniques used in clothes in India

Phulkari  

This embroidery belongs to the Punjab region and is an essential part of the trousseau of a Punjabi bride. It originated in the Jat community in Punjab. Phulkari means a garden of flowers.

Phulkari used to be done on homespun and home-woven dyed khadi material, usually in rust color and is done with untwisted silken thread Patt in magenta, yellow, green-blue, and saffron colors. The Silk threads used were hand-dyed with vegetable dyes. But now, it is done on cotton, silk, and even on synthetic materials. 

The three types of phulkari embroidery are

• Bagh, in which pattern covers the whole surface.
• Chobe, in which only the border is embroidered
• Shashidar, in which small mirrors are worked along with the embroidery.

Lavishly embroidered phulkari garments are a must-have part of bridal trousseau in Punjab.

Check out to learn this stunning embroidery –How to do Phulkari embroidery – DIY tutorial

Mirror Work / Shisha work 

Indian fabrics decorated with small mirrors or shishas are a sight to behold. They are dazzling, inexpensive, easy to stitch onto clothes, lightweight, and glamorous – many reasons why you should sew these little shishas onto your clothes.  

This work is also becoming a favorite on the fashion runways, with many designers like Manish Malhotra opting to embellish their creations with this gorgeous art.

In some parts of India, mirror work dominates the design, but in others, mirrors are used to decorate specific details of the design, like the center of a flower.

Checkout the tutorial – 8 ways to attach mirrors/ shishas to your clothes

and the tutorials to make 10 easy mirror embroidery designs

Chikankari

Chikankari originated in East Bengal, but now Utter Pradesh, particularly Lucknow, is famous for this beautiful embroidery work.

Checkout the detailed post and tutorial on Chikankari Embroidery 

This is originally done in cotton threads on soft white cotton cloths, but it is now also done on lightweight fabrics like cotton, linen, georgette, or chiffons.

The stitches used are Satin Stitch, Stem Stitch, back stitch, herringbone stitch, buttonhole stitch, and  Jaal stitch ( pulled thread embroidery).

The Lucknow work, as it is known nowadays, is an essential part of the wardrobe of an Indian girl in the form of kurtas and dupattas.

Checkout 5 easy chikan motifs you can make on your projects. 

Kutch embroidery

As the name suggests, this embroidery is originally from the Kutch region in Gujarat. Kutch is famous for many beautiful embroidery styles. The Kutch work in geometrical patterns is done mainly with herringbone stitches which are then interlaced with a contrasting colored thread. This work is also referred to as Sindhi embroidery.

Small squares form the basis of the Kutch embroidery. This is done with brightly colored threads, usually red, orange, green, etc., and results in a very colorful festive look. Mirrors are also used in this work, adding to the beauty of this work.

Related post: Beautiful kutch embroidery designs and detailed tutorial 

Kantha work 

Kantha embroidery belongs to the state of West Bengal and is a very beautiful and very unique style of embroidery.

Simple running stitches are used throughout this embroidery, giving the cloth a unique texture that is a visual delight and very popular among Indian ladies.

Scenes from the Indian legendary tales of Ramayan and Mahabharatha, scenes of nature, and even everyday life are traced into the cloth. The outline is done first and then filled.

Check out this tutorial on How to do Kantha embroidery work.

 Zardozi

Zardosi is a commonly seen work in almost all bridal trousseau in India; it weaves gold and silver thread onto the fabric to create very beautiful and intricate patterns.

Earlier, this work was affordable only to the rich, but nowadays, because of the many substitute materials used, this work is widely available.

The stitches used are the couching stem stitch, running stitch, and satin stitch.

Checkout the post on Zardosi embroidery for some 10 easy to make zardosi stitches with which you can easily embroider your  zardosi designs.

Kashida embroidery

This embroidery belongs to Kashmir. Kashmiri shawls done with this work are world famous and Kaftans worked with this embroidery exquisite.

A variety of Kashida embroidery is Raffugiri embroidery. In this embroidery technique, both sides of the cloth will look the same after the work is done.

The motifs for the embroidery designs are taken from scenes of nature. Motifs used are birds like parrots, peacocks, kingfishers, and leaves and fruits like apple blossoms, plums, cherries, grapes, and flowers like a lotus.  

Many items like pashmina shawls, sarees, and bedspreads are done with this beautiful work and are very well-valued. This intricate and detailed work requires very skilled workers. 

Check out the tutorial to do a Kashmiri stitch.

A type of Kashmiri embroidery involves Chain stitches worked throughout the design. The designs were based on nature, with common patterns being flowers, leaves, peacocks, animals like elephants, bhutis ( polka dots) etc.

Check out this post on chain stitch embroidery for 5 easy to make chain stitch embroidery motifs/designs.

Paisley Patterns

Paisley is a recurring motif in most Indian embroidery work. Check out the post on paisley designs for many ways to work this pattern.

Indian embroidery has a rich history and uses several motifs recurrently in its designs – some of the commonly used motifs are hunting scenes, jasmine, lily, peacock, swans, nightingale, deer, tiger, elephant, poppy, scrolls, floral designs with vines and leaves, moon-stars, Krishna with his girlfriends, mango (Paisley).

Further Reading sources:

If you would like to read more about Indian embroidery, check out these books in a store near you or “the-bookstore-with-all-free-books” – the library.

• 101 Folk embroidery and traditional handloom weaving by Shailaja D. Naik
• Embroidered Textiles: A World Guide to Traditional Patterns by Sheila Paine
• Ethnic Embroideries of India by Usha Srikant
• Indian Embroidery: Its Variegated charms by Savithri Pandit

Related posts : 60 Hand embroidery techniques; Indian textile patterns – names; Important Indian textile motifs