How to do Phulkari embroidery – DIY tutorial

Phulkari, which means Flower work, is a beautiful embroidery from Punjab. Phulkari embroidery involves designs in floral motifs done in very bright colors. It is regarded as very auspicious for brides and newborns.  

Darning stitch is the most important stitch used in this embroidery. Some other stitches, like herringbone stitch, and running stitch, buttonhole stitch, are used for additional decorations.

Designs are usually embroidered from the back of the cloth, but you can also embroider from the front.

Motifs used are mainly influenced by vegetable gardens and are named Karela bagh, gobhi bagh, dhaniya bagh, and mirchi bhagh. Motifs influenced by wheat and barley stalks abundant in Punjab are also commonly used. Seven colored motifs are called Satrangas, and Five colored motifs are called Panchrangas.
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Other popular motifs used are Jasmin flower(Motia), Lotus plant (Kamal), Chilli (Mirchi), Peacock (Mor), Wheat (Kanki), Wave (Lehriya bagh), Sunflower (Surajmughi), and Parrot (Totha, maina).

Color plays an important element in Phulkari embroidery. Bright colored thread used in the embroidery symbolised different expressions. Red is a commonly used color and represents youth and passion. Green represents fertility and blue serenity. Orange symbolises energy and White purity. White was also used for widows and older women.

Bagh and chope are the two main types of phulkari embroidery. Bagh means flower garden. Chope refers to border designs. Chope is usually done in yellow or golden thread. Vari da bagh is golden yellow phulkari embroidery with a small floral design done on red colored cloth. Bawan bagh has geometrical designs, and Ghunghat bagh has a border with triangular motifs.  Sheeshedar phulkari (mirror) uses mirrors embellished phulkari designs.  

You can use this embroidery on Sarees, dupattas, Salwar pants, kameezes, and home decor items.

Step 1. Draw the design on the fabric. Earlier, people used to count threads in Khaddar cloth and do the embroidery without drawing. But you need not go to that much trouble. Go ahead and draw the design. Use a scale to draw geometrical designs.

Step 2. This embroidery is done with a darning stitch which is repeated, mimicking satin stitch. Darning stitch is used to fill the motifs. Bring the needle to the front from the back, as shown in the picture. Go up the layers and then come down, filling the designs or vice versa. Repeat with another side. 

Step 5. After one side is completed, repeat for the other side. Your fabric backside should be very neat as well. 

Step 6. You can do outline stitches with running stitches all around the motif after the filling stitches are done, like the kantha embroidery work. Buttonhole stitches also can be done as an outline. 

Some designs for phulkari embroidery

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